On our bikes

We've been getting around the city either by foot or on bicycles for the most part. The other main mode of transportation is the Masurtka, or microbus. These are white vans that drive like they are on suicide missions. There is one in the photo trying to look innocent. They pull over anywhere at any time from any speed to pick up or drop off a passenger. I take one to my university, since it's way out on the edge of town, and way up a big hill. I am typically one of the 62 people inside that van. It costs 3 lei, three times more than the trolly bus, so it's relatively expensive, but you can get on or off wherever you want if you can make it through the press of humans to the door. Oh, 3 lei is still only about 28 cents, so even a teacher can afford it.

I bought one bicycle, and we've borrowed another. Biking around town is not something that very many people do in Chisinau, and for the adventurous, it's a lot of fun. There are absolutely no rules for bikes, except one, avoid the Masurtkas. You just go where you want, and avoid the cars and the people. You can bike on the sidewalks, on the streets, the opposite way down one way streets, whatever seems best to get you where you want to go. Since drivers are a lot like they are in Boston, you just have to be aggressive: either go or do not go. There is no hedging here on the Chisinau streets. People honk their horns a lot, just in case you are thinking of being in their way. The good news is that there are lots of streets that are less traveled, and parks that you can cut across, so it 's not too bad unless it's rush hour.

It's late autumn here now, and getting a bit cold, but still the days are nice and we enjoy the changing colors of the leaves in the city parks. This park is right in the center of the city and we pass through it daily. And here I am wearing almost a typical Moldavian outfit except for the shoes. Blue jeans, a nice sweater, a fancy belt, a black leather coat. I think I am wearing timberland shoes. They are not black, they are not pointy and they are not fancy. I probably stand out like a sore thumb. Once summer ends, if you're not wearing something black, your either a tourist or a Roma.